2 Weeks With The Williams

Cartagena, a city rich in historical significance, cultural beauties and colonial past. It had been over 2 years since I'd last been in Cartagena but immediately i was brought back to my last time upon seeing the hustle and bustle of downtown, the beautifully restored colonial building of Old Town and the picturesque wall surrounding the old city that holds so many tales of pirating and protecting. The wall, or La Muralla in Spanish, is undoubtedly one of the cities main drawing attractions as visitors from near and far flock to Cartagena to take in the rich history of the city. The walls main purpose was to protect the city from unwanted invasions because Cartagena was the principal port into South America that the Spanish conquistadors utilised upon capturing and colonising the continent. The protection of Cartagena was integral in order to protect the masses of gold and jewels that were being pillaged from ancient indigenous cultures throughout the continent. From huge cizilisations like the Incan's to small tribal groups, the Spanish were laying their claim to this new found glory and literal goldmine for exportation. The purpose of the wall was to fortify the pirating, but the history of the town is so much richer than that. You don't need to go far to witness some of the cultural beauties from past and present. The Caribbean influence is strong in the north, and along with the integration of African slaves during the colonisation times, which leaves a much darker Colombian look than you are used to seeing in parts of the South. With it also brings much of the pre-established culture of these parts of the world and there are many new exciting and interesting tastes, smells and sights to observe. Although visiting Cartagena in the past it was exciting to be back and to see this magical city once again. This time i had the opportunity to share it with more people and upon meeting the Williams' at the airport for the first time i knew that it was going to be an experience that was exciting and unlike my first time here in early 2010. 

Our first stop was in Old Town, well at least that was the plan when they hopped off the plane. There was a rough idea about where we'd end up, but no exact plan about how we'd get there. I would very quickly learn that this was a Williams' traditional travelling style, and although unconventional and at times stressful, it seemed to always work out for them. After the initial meet and greets i was already sensing we were all going to get along fine and there weren't any awkward moment that you might expect after talking about meeting each other for months and then it finally happening. In fact travelling with the Williams became one of the experiences I'd remember most fondly throughout my time in South America. Not only was it great to meet the people that helped shaped someone that had become such an important part of my life, but it also changed the style of travelling that had been our life for the last 7 months. Being a family holiday for the Williams they were obviously prepared to travel above the cheap standard of living that we had been experiencing. This meant a great deal of generosity forwarded to me and a hell of a lot of appreciation of my behalf. At the beginning there was a small unsettling period. After denying ourselves the most basic luxuries in order to save cash it was a refreshing reminder of the benefits we're afforded in our lives back home. Let's just say there was no cramming into single beds without fans in 35 degree heat, just to save a few bucks. 

After a few days exploring Cartagena it was time to move on. We only had a bit under 2 weeks together and there was a lot to see. On the way out of Cartagena, on the way to Santa Marta, we decided to stop by one of the well know tourist attractions... “the volcano”! I emphasise the “volcano” part because in all the guide books and information that is how they describe it. And i don't know about you but when I think of a volcano I generally think of a towering earth structure that creaks and moans with cries of escape. Having spent time a few years back in Ecuador with a volcano (blog available in the older archives) i couldn't help but be reminded of that sleeping dragon that rumbled and roared for weeks before spitting fire at night. This volcano, on the other hand, is know for its hot mud that bubbles up from below the surface. Being both therapetic, and an interestingly described experience, it was definitely work checking out.

Upon pulling into the road that led towards the volcano we were met with this looming structure in the distance. However, as we started to travel along the road it was suddenly appearing before our eyes a lot faster than we expected. Before we knew it we had stopped and we all had to do a double take down the road to make sure there wasn't some form of trickery. There standing in front of us is what could more appropriately be described as a giant ant hill as opposed to a “volcano”. It would have been lucky to stand higher than 30m and it had a rickety old wooden staircase that led up to the crater. Although being a bit of a funny shock the whole experience turned out pretty interesting. Once getting up to the top you can jump into the mud and float around. In fact this was a really crazy experience because the mud was so think, yet perfectly adjusted, that you would just simply float in the mud motionless. You wouldn't rise or sink, just be completely weightless in the thick ooze. Moving around reminded us of what it looked like when you saw space movies and people float around shuttles like swimming through invisible water. You just kicked back and floated around, or twisted and turned about getting no traction or making any forward movement. After some time they usher you out for the next group and you make the descend down the mountain looking like a creature crawling out of the swamps. You make your way down to the nearby river where a middle aged woman strips you down and rinses you off with a bucket. Assuring you that when you drop your strides in a foot of water next to a young child... “that everything is ok”. 

Feeling refreshed and with a strange new spray tan glow of dark brown we got back in our mode of transportation and continued on for Santa Marta. It was just a quick night stop over there before we headed off the next morning for the National Park of Tyrona, which makes the iconic link between the lush Sierra Nevada and the crystal Caribbean coast. We were headed here for the next few nights and it was probably one of the most amazing parts of the journey. Equally for the accommodation and relaxation time we experienced there as for the beauties of the region. During out stay we had the luxury of two cabanas nestled right inside the mountains and overlooking the ocean. To describe them as anything short than incredible would be an injustice. Double storey wooden huts with the biggest and comfiest beds. Pristine bathrooms with hot water showers and real toilets. Ok so at the moment it probably just sounds like most things people already have back home, but believe me this wasn't just homely luxuries this place was plush. To go into full detail would almost certainly lead me to digress because it was so foreign to our experiences leading up to it that i only barely knew how to appreciate it. Up until that point it had been all go go go getting up to Colombia, and before that it was 6 tiresome months in Pisco. We finished our volunteering, bolted 3 weeks from the south of Peru to the north of Colombia and now we finally had some time to stop and relax. Days were spent relaxing by the beach or just kicking back, reading and enjoying the surroundings. The days were hot, the beach was cooling and the air was fresh. It was a great spot to hang out for a few days. After these recharge days it was time to head to the last destination on the vacation, after that Christine and i would be back fending for ourselves in the depths of Colombia. 

All aboard, next stop San Andres Islands. The small collection of islands belonging to Colombia an hour and a half flight north off the mainland. They sit much closer to Nicaragua than Colombia, have a very distinct English Caribbean influence and are one of the best spots to head if you want to escape just about anything in life! If your problems can't be solved from a bit of Caribbean life then they're bigger than you are. That's seems to be an underlying and unofficial motto of the Caribbean lifestyle, especially of the islands. Anything goes, relax man and take it easy! This small island can be circumnavigated within a couple of hours in a motobike or golf cart hired in town. Most of the shops on the island are duty free and some of those more expensive purchases suddenly become a bit more accessible. Although with the cost to get out there and the lack of budget accommodation it pretty much levels out by the end. We spent 4 days at San Andres and had a great time exploring all that was to offer. We rented golf carts, visited different beaches, got some history on the island from locals, ate some amazing food and hit up some low cost liquor. San Andres is a funny little place because as soon as you land on the island you realise that, although you may still be in Colombia, this doesn't feel like a heavily influenced Spanish province. The majority of people speak English, influenced from the English Caribbean, they are significantly darker skinned than in Colombia and the food, music, art and all round culture look like something out of a Bob Marley concert. Picture your typical Jamaican stereotype and you're pretty close to what San Andres is like. Unfortunately not everything lasts forever and within a few days it was time for the Williams to make there final flight out to Panama and for us to get back on the road of poor backpackers. Although it was an amazing two weeks visiting some things i never would have had the opportunity to see, i was ready to hit the road of mystery again. We bid goodbye to the Williams in San Andres and I thanked them once again for the extreme generosity they shared with me. Now it was back to Christine and I on the open road of Northern Colombia. We had 6 weeks left before flying back to San Francisco for the holidays and there were still so many things to do before we left. 

We boarded a flight back from San Andres to Bogota and then made a connection to Barranquilla where we were going to restart our Northern Colombia journey where we left it. By the time the connecting flight made it's way into Barranquilla it was nearing 12am. We didn't really know where we were going to stay, the hostel district was far into town and then in the morning we were just going to have to catch a bus back to the bus terminal. All these costs we were suddenly faced with again came rushing back to us after a couple of weeks of forgetting about backpacking. We were well and truly on the road again. A swift and sharp reality check to our travels. Natural travel instincts kicked in and we came up with the perfect solution.... sleep in the airport! And that's exactly what we did to save $50! Cold, hard and lonely airport tiles. Bright like an operating room. But $50 richer and the way we had been travelling that could mean a couple of days between us! These are the sorts of sacrifices one must make when they enter a world of unknown and undetermined travelling. This is nothing, there has been so much worse endured to fully experience travel or cultural insight. Everyone has there own limits, but if you're willing to push yours you would be surprised how far you can go. This is why i love travel, this is why i hit the road with an open plan and and an open heart to the world! The world is a small place when you're living inside your comfort zone. Step outside that and opportunities and experiences you never knew existed are suddenly at your feet. Ready to peer out of your box and into the world! Starts with one step, and then a big jump!